引言
调香师在创作或调配一款香水或其他香氛产品时,如何确定配方使用哪些香料成分呢?除了基于安全和合规角度参考IFRA标准,另一个非常重要的因素就是香料成分本身的香味特征,可以说是调香灵感和创意的基石。
给每种香料成分都打上鲜明、易识别且被广泛认可的嗅觉标签,调香师就可以大显身手进行创意发挥了!就像画家运用各种颜色或色调,描绘出或明朗、或宁静、或壮阔的画作;音乐家利用不同的音符和音调,谱写或激昂、或婉转、或欢快的乐曲;调香师运用不同香味特征的香料,调配出不同风格印记的产品,构建独特的嗅觉记忆。
我在介绍IFRA的文章(一文读懂:国际日用香料协会(IFRA))里面提到, IFRA成分透明清单(IFRA transparency list),是“调香师的调色板”。该清单全面收录了全球市场各类消费品——从个人护理、家居用品到高级香水——所用香精混合物中包含的香料成分。
IFRA为了给行业提供清晰易懂、规范统一的香味描述,对成分透明清单中香料成分(不作为赋香用途的其他功能成分除外)进行了标准化的嗅觉描述,形成了香料成分术语表(Fragrance Ingredient Glossary),简称FIG。
主要内容
《香料成分术语表》包括CAS号、主要化学名称和主要描述词、另外两个辅助描述词。同时包括对主要描述词的含义解读。
使用约定
1. IFRA 香料成分术语表 (FIG) 可供下载,但须遵守 相关的 使用条款。它经过了全面的法律审查,并遵守竞争法和知识产权标准。FIG 是一个包容性的协作数据库,受版权保护,为香料行业集体所有。
2. 所有对《香料成分术语表》(全部或部分)的使用,都必须按如下或类似规范格式注明版权信息:“本信息源自国际日用香料协会制定的《香料成分术语表》。”
3. 采用自愿使用原则。鼓励会员积极采用该术语表,但并非强制,成员也可根据自身需求制定其他方案。
更新机制
和成分透明清单一起更新,目前最新一版是2020年4月发布的。
下面,咱们来看一下,这份术语表里面主要描述词都有哪些?
1.ACIDIC(酸性香调)
Acidic means a fragrance note that smells sharp and somewhat pungent. Acidic notes may help boost a citrus note or impart natural qualities.
“酸性”指的是一种闻起来尖锐且略带刺激性的香料特征。
酸性香调,有助于提升柑橘类香气的清新感,或为香氛赋予更自然的质感。
PS:在调香学中,”酸性”并非指化学酸碱值,而是描述一种具有穿透力的鲜活气息。这种香调常见于:柑橘类香料(如柠檬、青柠),
未成熟水果的青涩香气,某些草本植物(如番茄叶、青草),通过微量使用可增强香水的层次感和天然生命力,如同烹饪中柠檬汁提鲜的效果。
2. ALDEHYDIC 醛香
Aldehydes vary: the more diluted they become, the greater the difference in smell. An overarching description is one of clean ironed linen. Aldehydes can be split into more specific profiles, such as citrus or ozonic. They are organic compounds found in natural oils (e.g. orange oil or rose oil) and are used at relatively low doses.
醛类物质特性各异:稀释度越高,气味差异越显著。其整体香感可概括为洁净的熨烫过的衬布气息。醛香可细分为柑橘调、臭氧调等更具体的香型。作为天然存在于橙花油、玫瑰油等植物精油中的有机化合物,其在香精中的用量相对较低。
3. AMBER 琥珀
Amber is used to describe a complex note in fragrances that are a mixture of warm, woody and sweet notes that impart a rich and comforting character.
琥珀用以诠释一种温暖的复合香调,由木质香与甜香交织而成,共同营造出馥郁而令人安心的馨香氛围。
4.ANIMAL-LIKE 动物感香调
Animal-like notes are important notes used in perfumery. They do not come from animals, but are created to give what some would see as a faecal note or a musk note. In dilution they might help impart musk notes or floral notes like jasmin.
动物感香调是调香术中一类重要的香调。它们并非来源于动物,而是通过人工模拟出类似麝香或野性气息的特质。经稀释后,可用于烘托麝香基调或增强茉莉等白花的馥郁风情。
5.ANISIC 茴香
Anisic materials are those that smell similar to natural aniseed materials like tarragon or fennel.
茴香类原料是指气味上接近天然茴香类物质(如龙蒿、茴香)的香原料。
6. AROMATIC 芳香调
Aromatic notes are complex notes that are sometimes also described as having a diffusive aroma. They may be recognized in cooking as culinary herbs and spices, but they have a full fragrance quality.
芳香调是一种复杂的香调,其特质可概括为弥漫性香气。尽管它们作为烹饪中的香草和香料被熟知,但在香氛中却展现出饱满而完整的嗅觉特质。
7.BALSAMIC 馥郁调
Ingredients that smell balsamic tend to have a delicate smell that is slightly sweet and woody, and have been termed using natural resins and balsams exuded by some trees or shrubs.
馥郁调原料通常散发出精致、微甜且带有木质感的香气。“馥郁调”一词得名于其天然来源——即某些树木或灌木所分泌的树脂与香脂,承载着自然的醇厚与芬芳。
8.CAMPHORACEOUS 樟脑香
A fresh, strong and diffusive smell that is characterized by natural camphor and other herbs such as rosemary or marjoram.
一种清新、强烈且具有扩散性的香气,以天然樟脑及迷迭香、马郁兰等草本植物的气息为特征。
9.CITRUS柑橘调
Citrus notes are given by the smell of fruit from the citrus family – such as orange, lemon or grapefruit.
柑橘调源自柑橘类水果的鲜活香气,橙、柠檬与葡萄柚皆是其标志性代表。
10.EARTHY泥土调
Earthy notes are reminiscent of earth and mud. They are important when creating a fragrance that needs to impart the full character of a living flower or to give natural outdoor notes – allowing the creation of full landscape (e.g. a bed of roses on a wet day) as opposed to a single or specific smell.
泥土调令人联想到大地与泥土的气息。在香氛创作中,当需要复现一朵鲜花的完整神韵或增添自然户外感时,此香调至关重要。它能助力调香师塑造出整体的嗅觉意境(如雨后玫瑰园的景象),而非仅仅呈现单一、具体的气味。
11.FLORAL 花香调
Floral notes belong to the large floral family that includes notes such as rose, jasmin, narcissus and others. Some fragrance materials have smells that are not one flower but multi-faceted, with a complex flowery character.
花香调归属于庞大的花香家族,涵盖玫瑰、茉莉、水仙等香型。部分香料的气息并非源于单一花卉,而是呈现出层次丰富、结构复杂的复合花香。
12.FOOD-LIKE 美食调
Food-like describes food substances of a savoury or less specific character – such as the smell of roasted vegetables.
“美食调”用于描述那些带有咸鲜或非特定特质的美食气息—例如烤蔬菜所散发的香气。
13.FRUITY 果香调
Fruity notes belong to the non-citrus fruit family. This is a very large family that includes many fruit notes such as banana, apple and mango. Some fruit fragrance materials have smells that are not one fruit but multi-faceted, with a complex fruity character.
果香调归属于非柑橘类水果家族。这是一个非常庞大的香调体系,涵盖香蕉、苹果与芒果等多种果香。部分果香原料并非单一水果气味,而是呈现出层次丰富的复合果香。
14.GOURMAND 美食调(甜点调)
This very important fragrance group has been popular for a number of years – with a food-like smell that is sweet, sticky, or dessert-like. It includes caramel, fudge, chocolate and meringue.
作为香氛领域中一个重要且历久弥新的香型谱系,美食调以其甜美、绵密、令人联想到甜品的独特嗅觉特征而著称,典型代表包括焦糖、软糖、巧克力与蛋白霜的香气。
15.GREEN 绿香调
Green is a broad descriptor that refers simply to those natural smell that are green – such as the distinctive scent of cut grass, hedgerow fruits flowers, and those green notes and many green materials that help impart natural smells in a more complex accord or mix of scents.
“绿香”是一个宽泛的嗅觉描述词,泛指一切天然的绿色植物气息,如刚割过的青草、树篱间的花果的独特气味。很多绿色香原料能在复杂的香氛中,助力营造出更逼真的自然气息。
16.HERBAL 草本调
Herbal notes include culinary herbs (e.g. thyme, rosemary) that often have a green note and impart fresh nuances to a complex fragrance.
草本调包含百里香、迷迭香等烹饪香草,它们通常带有一丝绿意,能为复杂香氛赋予清新的层次。
17.HONEY 蜂蜜调
Honey is used to describe materials that have honey characteristics – often sweet and cloying, but sometimes quite harsh and acidic.
蜂蜜调用于描述具有蜂蜜特征的原料——其香气通常甜美而浓郁,但有时也会显得相当强烈并带有酸感。
18.MARINE海洋调
Marine covers smells that you expect to fine at the seashore – they tend to be fresh and sometimes ozonic, and often sea water-like.
海洋调涵盖了你能在海边所能闻到的各类气息——它们通常极为清新,时而带有一丝臭氧般的透彻感,并常常带着海水特有的咸润氛围。
19.MINTY薄荷调
These materials impart mint or menthol notes reminiscent of peppermint and spearmint.
此类原料能赋予香氛以薄荷或薄荷醇的香调,令人联想到胡椒薄荷与留兰香的独特气息。
20.MUSK-LIKE 类麝香
These materials belong to an important fragrance note – while they are not obtained from animals, they are created to have an animal-like quality, often powdery and sometimes warm and sweet.
此类原料归属于香氛中一类重要的香韵——它们并非来源于动物,而是通过人工合成模拟出类似动物体的气息特质,通常带有粉质感,也会呈现出温暖而甜美的特征。
21.OZONIC 臭氧调
Ozonic notes are fresh-smelling materials that don’t have a more specific note but may remind you of a fresh windy day. Sometimes they have a weak, almost chlorine-like smell.
臭氧调香原料呈现清新气息,其香韵没有特定类别,却能令人联想到清风拂面的舒爽天气。此类香气有时会伴随微弱的、近似氯气的味道。
22.POWDERY粉感调
Powdery fragrance ingredients are from a larger complex group that impart a warm, sometimes sweet or musky powdery smell.
粉感香原料属于一个庞大而复杂的类别,它能赋予香氛以温暖的、时而带有甜意或类似麝香的粉质感。
23.SMOKY 烟熏调
These ingredients have a smoked or phenolic quality, reminding you of the smell from a bonfire or the smell of food burning.
此类成分具有烟熏或类似苯酚的特质,令人联想到篝火的气味或是食物烧焦的味道。
24.SPICY 辛香调
These ingredients belong to a broad spicy family, characterized by many spicy notes from cinnamon to other culinary spices such as pepper, nutmeg and clove. They sometimes have a sweet note and impart warm nuances to a complex fragrance
这些成分属于一个庞大的辛香家族,典型特征:肉桂、其他烹饪香料如如胡椒、肉豆蔻与丁香等气味。时而带有一丝甜意,并能为一款复杂香氛注入温暖的层次。
25.SULFUROUS 硫磺调
Sulfurous materials have a distinctive smell, reminiscent of onion or garlic. Some sulfur materials may be very pungent and unpleasant at high levels, but when used in a fragrance they may impart citrus or floral notes.
硫磺类原料带有独特的气息,令人联想到洋葱或大蒜。某些含硫物质在浓度高时可能极为刺鼻并令人不悦,但当它们用于香氛中,则能赋予其柑橘或花香等香调。
26.TOBACCO-LIKE 烟草调
These ingredients are created to give an smell of tobacco before it has been lit or smoked. They tend to be sweet and warm notes, sometimes with the smell of dried fruit.
此类原料旨在模拟烟草在点燃或吸食前的气味。它们通常呈现为甜美而温暖的香调,有时会带有干果的馥郁气息。
27.WOODY 木质调
Woody notes are party of a large odor family that includes woods such as sandalwood or cedarwood, sometimes with smoky or leather nuances. Often warm and dry notes, they impart a rich complexity that can help a fragrance last longer. 木质调隶属于一个庞大的气味家族,涵盖檀香、雪松等木材香气,有时会带有烟熏或皮革的层次感。通常表现为温暖而干燥的香调,能为香氛注入丰富的复杂性,并有助于延长其留香时间。
具体的香料成分香味描述词参见FIG,选取部分术语表内容截图如下供参考。
香气是一种独特的嗅觉体验,具体感受和喜好因人而异”,不同的人对同一种香气的感受和体验也不尽相同。拿香水来说,有的人特别喜欢海洋调的香水,而有的人却会产生晕香反应,对其避之不及。
消费者选用的香水,在一定程度上代表了个人的气质和审美。气味不仅能够唤起嗅觉记忆和建立情感链接,也是彰显个性和品味的有力表达。
文章转自:Vivian的法规阵地公众号
发稿/咨询/合作联系:13710470565(微信)

下面,咱们来看一下,这份术语表里面主要描述词都有哪些?

